Remember this; the stock NP has an output bearing at the rear of the speedo housing as does the new slip-yoke eliminator kit. These bearings are within 0.
The shortest design for a yoke kit would be to place the yoke immediately after the rear bearing. The JB kit does exactly that. Anything shorter would require a shorter end yoke or more shallow rear housing and that is not possible due to the size of the speedometer gear bore. What this means is that the JB kit is designed to be the shortest overall length possible regardless of where you measure from.
After the installation of the JB kit, the improved operating angles of the u-joints will greatly increase the life of the driveline. The new HD yoke kit is shipped with a C. Other end yokes are available to accommodate larger u-joints however the is the preferred joint. Which SYE do you recommend? There's certainly a lot of other options out there which I won't even begin to list, but the Advanced Adapters SYE is my favorite.
What if I have an LJ? Lucky you! The LJ in most cases is fun up to about That's one of the benefits you get from the LJ with it's longer wheel base If I missed anything on this one guys, please feel free to add to it!
Hey Chris I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a SYE kit, and during my research I found a few things that are not discussed very often. The prior owner of my Jeep installed a 4" lift kit that included a rear track bar relocation bracket and a transfer case drop. Since the rear pinion will need to be adjusted up to match the angle of the output shaft from the transfer case, the rear track bar can bind in the standard bracket.
Because of the possibility of binding, I purchased an angled relocation bracket. I picked up mine from Metalcloak, since the rest of the suspension is from them and I like their products. The transfer case drop uses much longer bolts because of the spacers, so you will need the standard Mopar bolts or equivalent.
Mopar part number While the transfer case is open it's a great time for some preventative maitenance. Reactions: Ryanoceros and Kevin E. Serbonze , very helpful information to add to this thread, thank you! I also agree that if the transfer case is already open that is a perfect time to do some preventative maintenance even if things aren't broken!
Just updating I'm not going with a super short because I have no plans for a tummy tuck. This includes bearing and seals. Transfer case skid plate bolts to replace the longer bolts from the TC drop. Transfer case chain from Borg Warner part number HV Reactions: Jon Wildes , Dan T. Serbonze said:. Click to expand Reactions: 04Rubiinmaine , Dan T.
Ben Davis February 18, Is a slip yoke eliminator necessary? How do I know if I have a slip yoke eliminator? What is a Jeep slip yoke eliminator? How much does it cost to install a Sye Jeep TJ? What is a slip yoke? What is the point of a slip yoke eliminator?
For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak.
Also, in this video referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said , the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans.
We understand the basics, it's not a needed thing on a wd21 is uncc's point. Thats generally one of those 'jeep things' that they have to worry about. I think I remember Steevo saying that his 4 link setup can retain the stock slip yoke for the rear drive shaft but he did not say the limitations of using it though. As for a SYE, you can do what Nunya mentioned. Shouldn't be difficult with the exception to drilling the rear shaft for a bolt.
You'll need to put the slip yoke on a lathe and mill it down square. I'm not sure how much meat the slip yoke has but you might need some metal on there and then just center the hole, transfer a yoke holes over and drill away. And yes I believe steve is still running his stock rear shaft I know before he did his new 4link it was still the stock shaft BC we had discussions on pinion angles and wearing out u joints and he hadn't had any issues You should be able to find some drive line calculators out there where u can out in the data points to determine if the angles are too steep These are not jeeps, they do not run jeep drive lines, they are not setup with jeep pinion angles or suspension geometry.
I Learned something new to me. Its all simple geometry to determine if you have enough slip inwards or outwards just need to know where full rebound and jounce are although full rebound won't happen unless you are jumping things typically. If there is a concern on binding the u joints Another thought would be to go to a 2 shaft setup but that would require tabbing of 2 deiveshafts and figuring out a midship bearing location and running through vibration calculations.
Also if there is enough slip available you could adjust pinion angle and maybe change the power angle. HI everyone. I have about 7- 8" of suspension lift. Check out video on you tube. It's listed as nissan pathfinder 4 link.
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